Professor Cocktail

Gin Review: Aviation Gin

Aviation Gin
American Gin
Grade:(Superb)
Price: $28 (750ml)

First launched in 2006 as one of the pioneers of the new trend in American gins, Aviation has been repackaged with a striking new look that classes up the bottle to match the contents.

Aviation tastes like gin, but not the gin we're used to. It has the requisite juniper flavor, but it's much more subtle than in London dry gin. (That makes this a nice alternative for those who find gin too piney.) It has pronounced notes of citrus and spice, and an almost briny character that would probably go great in a Martini.

Aviation is softer than most gins. A little more inviting. It's designed to be used in cocktails, especially those from the pre-Prohibition era. But you can certainly drink it straight if you want to, and won't be disappointed.

I didn't make a Martini (or an Aviation, this gin's namesake cocktail), but I did mix it in a Gin and Tonic. I was concerned that the less assertive character of this spirit would get lost in the mix. But no fear. It balanced quite nicely, making for a tasty, refreshing cocktail that is dangerously easy to drink.

Aviation Gin is 84-proof, but never harsh. It's a different style of gin than the norm, but that's a good thing. Tasty alternatives are always welcome, and Aviation Gin matches up quite nicely on that score.

Professor Cocktail's Holiday Gift Guide: Gin

The holidays are upon us once again. Whether you're celebrating Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, or all three, you want to find the perfect gift to give to those you care about. If that special someone enjoys a good tipple, your task is that much easier. Just give them booze!

This week we'll be running our holiday gift guide, with recommendations for spirits in different categories. First up is gin.

 

Professor Cocktail's Holiday Gift Guide: Gin

Gifting a bottle to a gin lover is simpler than with most spirits. There aren't as many choices as there are with Scotch (for example), and most of the brands are damn good.

Can't-Miss Gin: Tanqueray ($19)

One of the world's most ubiquitous gins is also one of the best. The classic gin of the London dry variety, Tanqueray is always welcome.

Perfect All-Purpose Gin: Plymouth ($30)

Virtually any cocktail that calls for gin can be deliciously made with Plymouth. Softer and a little sweeter than Tanqueray, every bar (and every gin drinker) needs a bottle on the shelf.

The Gift for the Gin Connoisseur:  North Shore No. 11 ($32)

A truly unique gin that most haven't heard of, North Shore No. 11 has the classic flavors of a London dry, augmented with amazing herbs and spices. Makes a one-of-a-kind delicious gin and tonic.

We've included links for each suggestion to K&L Wines (where available). K&L is a great spirits store, with impeccable service and a sterling reputation. You can order from them with confidence. Send them an email to see if they ship to your state. (Note: We're not being compensated for these links -- but we should be!)

Ask the Professor: Recommend a Cocktail

Julie H. writes in to ask:

My brother recently turned 50 and we're having him and his partner over for dinner. I'd like to offer them some cool potent potable at this gala, yet casual, event.

They mostly order dry martinis when we're out, but they love trying new things. Mostly they're not into sweet, but my brother occasionally orders Manhattans.

I have a drink to suggest: the Martinez. Depending on who you listen to, the Martinez is either the original Martini, a variation on the Manhattan -- or both. It was created in the late-19th century, maybe in California. The town of Martinez, CA likes to claim the drink was named after it, but there's no real evidence to support that. It was possibly invented by the great Jerry Thomas, the author of the world's first cocktail book, but the truth is nobody really knows.

You can make a Martinez with London dry gin (the standard gin of today, like Tanqueray or Beefeater), but originally it was made with Old Tom gin, a sweeter gin that was very popular back in the day. 

I, however, like to make them with genever. Genever (sometimes known as "Holland gin") was the original gin produced in the Netherlands before it was adopted by the English and adapted into their own style (London dry).

Genever has many of the same botanical flavors as London dry gin (juniper, etc.) but it is distilled at least partially from malt wine. It tastes somewhat similar to regular gin, due to the presence of the botanicals, but the malt gives it a grainy taste that more closely resembles whiskey. It has a rich flavor, along with a satiny mouthfeel that ordinary gin lacks.

I find it a very interesting spirit, because it's different from what most people are used to drinking. For many, many years it wasn't available in the U.S., but Bols recently created a new version that they now import to the U.S. Genever is a hip spirit, the kind of thing we cocktail geeks like to drink -- but I think anyone who likes gin will love it.

Here's the recipe:

Martinez (Genever Variant)

2 oz Bols Genever
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
2 Dashes Angostura Bitters or Orange Bitters

Stir with ice, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass.Garnish with a lemon or orange twist.

This is sweeter than a Dry Martini, but not too sweet. (At least, it's not too sweet in my opinion. Although I should say that I do tend to like my drinks on the sweeter side.) About the same as a Manhattan, I guess.

Typically the Martinez is made with equal parts gin and sweet vermouth, but I reduced the amount of vermouth in this recipe to make it less sweet. If you want to get fancy you can jazz it up with a small amount -- maybe 1/4 oz -- of orange curaçao or maraschino liqueur (which is a liqueur made from Maraska cherries, NOT the stuff that maraschino cherries come in). But that would require you to buy more booze, so you might not want to go that way.

Genever can also be used to make a Genever Old Fashioned, a Holland House, a Gin Fix, an Improved Gin Cocktail, or even a Tom Collins.

Cheers!

Celebrating (?) Income Tax Day - with a cocktail

Today is Income Tax Day in the United States, the day when federal income tax filings are due. It's usually April 15, but it was pushed back two days this year because the 15th was a Sunday (and the 16th was Emancipation Day). Hopefully you've filed your tax returns already and the damage wasn't too bad. (If you haven't sent them in yet, you'd better file for an extension.)

Now that that's over with, it's time to -- what else? -- enjoy a cocktail! I have an obvious suggestion: the Income Tax Cocktail.

 

Income Tax Cocktail

2 oz Gin
1/4 oz Sweet Vermouth
1/4 oz Dry Vermouth
1 oz Orange Juice
2 Dashes Angostura Bitters

Shake with ice, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

 

Perhaps you need something a little stronger. No worries. For you, I have the Painkiller.

Painkiller

2 1/2 oz Dark Rum
4 oz Pineapple Juice
1 oz  Cream of Coconut
1 oz Orange Juice
Nutmeg (preferably freshly-ground) 

Shake with ice, then pour unstrained into a collins glass. Sprinkle with nutmeg.

Bottoms up!

Martinez Drink Recipe - The Original Genever Version

Regarded by most cocktail historians as the forerunner of the Martini, the Martinez exists in many variations.

Although it is seldom drunk today, it's one of the classic cocktails for a reason, and definitely something you should try.

I mixed up one in the original fashion, using Dutch genever instead of the more typical London Dry gin.

Made in this way, you can think of the Martinez as a variation on the Manhattan, since genever has a flavor that is in some ways reminiscent of a young bourbon (along with the added botanical flavors, including juniper, that are usually found in gin).

The result is on the sweet side -- you could cut back on the vermouth a little to modify that, if desired -- but quite delicious.

 

Martinez

1 1/2 oz Bols Genever
1 1/2 oz Sweet Vermouth
1/4 oz Orange Curacao
2 Dashes Angostura Bitters

Stir with ice, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

 

I recommend the Bols Genever for this cocktail, although you can substitute a different genever (prefreably of the oude variety) if that's all you have.

I used Martini sweet vermouth -- any good sweet vermouth would work, just make sure it's fresh.

Marie Brizard is my go-to curacao, and it's definitely worth seeking out. If you don't have orange curacao, you can substitute Grand Marnier, although you might use a little less since it's sweeter.

Cheers!

Edit (4/18): The original inspiration for this post was based on something I read on Difford's Guide, which claimed genever as the spirit in the original Martinez. However, it now appears that the support for that claim is tenuous at best. When I asked David Wondrich about it, he prounounced it, "Unlikely. There's a divide in the late 19th century, with Holland gin going into the old classics and English gin in the new drinks...I [don't] believe that there's such thing as a Martinez as distinct from a Martini."

Vanilla Berry Fizz Drink Recipe

I've been playing around with Tuaca this week. It's a vanilla and citrus-flavored liqueur, originally from Italy, but now produced in the United States. The sweet vanilla flavor dominates, with the brandy and citrus (orange, I believe) taking a backseat.

Tuaca enjoyed a burst of popularity a few years back when bartenders started mixing it into cocktails. I haven't heard a lot about it lately, but I think it has a lot of potential for mixing. It takes fine straight up (just make sure you drink it cold), with an authentic vanilla flavor. But I think its real potential is in cocktails.

You can find quite a few recipes on their website, but here's a variation of one that I mixed up and especially enjoyed.

 

Vanilla Berry Fizz

1 1/2 oz Tuaca
1 oz Gin
3 Strawberries
1/2 oz Lemon Juice
1/2 oz Simple Syrup
Soda Water

Muddle strawberries at the bottom of a mixing glass, along with lemon juice and simple syrup.

Add all other ingredients (except the soda water) and shake with ice. Double strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Garnish with a strawberry.

 

I used Plymouth Gin, which mixes very well in drinks like this. But you can use any good quality gin. 

I initially made this without the simple syrup, but it was too tart. (Probably the fault of the early-season strawberries.) If your strawberries are on the sweet side, you can probably leave out the extra sugar.

Cheers!

The "Mad Men" and Their Cocktails: A Guide

Mad Men, the acclaimed AMC drama that recreates the smoky world of a 1960s Manhattan ad agency, returns on Sunday after a hiatus of nearly a year and a half. It's a great show: rich and textured, with sharp writing and strong acting. Plus, they drink a lot!

In case you're thinking about throwing a Mad Men cocktail party to celebrate the show's return -- or if, like me, you're just planning on drinking along -- here are easy recipes for some of the drinks that Don Draper and friends loved to imbibe.

The Manhattan is one of the best drinks you'll see on the show, and Don's daughter, Sally, mixes a mean one -- but she always forgets the bitters.

Manhattan

2 oz Bourbon or Rye Whiskey
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
2 Dashes Angostura Bitters

Stir with ice, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Can also be served on the rocks. Garnish with a maraschino cherry.

 

Outside of the bedroom, Don tends to be a pretty conservative guy. So it comes as no surprise that his favorite cocktail is the Old Fashioned.

Old Fashioned

2 oz Bourbon or Rye Whiskey
1/4 oz Simple Syrup
2 Dashes Angostura Bitters

Stir with ice in an old fashioned (rocks) glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

 

A favorite of Roger Cooper, the Gibson is a Martini made with a cocktail onion instead of an olive. It's traditionally made with gin -- but if Roger's trying to land the Heublein account, maybe he'll order it with vodka instead.

Gibson

2 1/2 oz Gin or Vodka
1/2 oz Dry Vermouth

Stir with ice, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cocktail onion.

 

Betty Draper Francis, Don's ex-wife, may have lousy taste in men: but she knows a good cocktail when she sees one. She's partial to the Gimlet.

Gimlet

2 oz. Gin
1 oz. Rose's Lime Juice

Shake (or stir if you'd rather) with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wedge.

 

In Season 3, Roger and his wife throw a Kentucky Derby party, where naturally they serve Mint Juleps (the race's official drink). This Southern classic is a sweet and delicious treat.

Mint Julep

2 oz Bourbon Whiskey
1/2 oz Simple Syrup
Leaves from 4-5 Mint Sprigs

Add simple syrup and mint leaves to a silver julep cup or collins glass. Muddle gently. (Be careful not to work the mint too hard.) Add bourbon, then fill with crushed ice. Garnish with mint sprigs.

 

Joan Holloway is a fan of one of my favorite drinks: the Tom Collins. Cool and refreshing, it's the perfect summer drink -- but it also goes down very well in March.

Tom Collins

2 oz Gin
1 oz Simple Syrup
3/4 Lemon Juice
Club Soda 

Shake with ice, then strain into a collins glass filled with ice. Top with club soda. Garnish with a half orange wheel and marschino cherry.

 

The Bloody Mary is the perfect drink for brunch, and this classic hangover cure has appeared in several episodes. But as Peggy Olson shows above, it can be enjoyed at other times as well.

Bloody Mary

1 1/2 oz Vodka
4 oz Tomato Juice
1/4 oz Lemon Juice
2 Dashes Worcestershire Sauce
2 Dashes Tabasco Sauce
1 Pinch Kosher Salt 

Roll with ice (i.e., pour back and forth) between both halves of Boston shaker. Strain into ice-filled highball glass. Garnish with celery stalk.

 

In one episode, Peggy and the boys brainstorm ideas for a Bacardi marketing campaign, during which they drink Rum and Cokes (Cuba Libres).

Cuba Libre

2 oz White Rum
Cola

In an ice-filled highball glass, add rum, then top with cola and stir. Squeeze a lime wedge into the drink, then drop it in. 

 

I don't recall if anyone's ever drunk a Daiquiri on the show, but it's definitely the type of cocktail that would have been popular at the time, especially with the show's female characters. 

Daiquiri

2 oz White Rum
1 oz Simple Syrup
3/4 oz Lime Juice

Shake with ice, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.

 

Here's what you need to get for your party (total cost of the liquor is around $110 if you just get one of the whiskeys):

• Bourbon Whiskey -- Maker's Mark ($23) is the perennial crowd pleaser. (Don has a fondness for Canadian Club, which is Canadian Whisky, but not many people drink it these days.)
• Rye Whiskey -- Rittenhouse ($23) or Wild Turkey Rye ($26) are both good brands. 
  • (If you don't want to buy two types of whiskey, you can interchange bourbon and rye in most of these cocktails. Rye has a spicier flavor than bourbon; bourbon is smoother than rye. Rye is less than ideal for a Mint Julep, although it was long the preferred preparation in Maryland.)
• Vodka -- Smirnoff ($15) would be most appropriate for the era. If you want to go upscale, get Stolichnaya ($22), which Roger mentions in one episode. (He declines to share the contraband vodka with a guest.) For a good, cheap, modern alternative, get Sobieski ($11).
• Rum -- Bacardi ($13) would have been the popular pour of the day, and it featured prominently in one episode, but their modern product leaves something to be desired.  Buy some Cruzan Light ($13), a good, affordable alternative.
• Gin -- Beefeater ($19) or Tanqueray ($20). Both are excellent -- get whichever's on sale. (Beefeater was more popular at the time, but Tanqueray actually appears in one episode.)
• Sweet Vermouth -- Martini & Rossi ($5) is a good brand. Buy a half bottle.
• Dry Vermouth -- Noilly Prat ($5) is my favorite. Buy a half bottle, if you can find one.
• Lemons and limes. Squeeze them fresh for juice.
• Orange and celery for garnish.
• Tomato juice. Yes, you can use bottled. (Cook's Illustrated says Campbell's is the best.)
• Simple Syrup -- Make it yourself. Heat 1 cup of water in a saucepan and dissolve 1 cup of sugar in it. Don't let it boil.
• Maraschino Cherries -- Try to find a brand without high fructose corn syrup, if possible.

See you Sunday night!

Recipe: Clover Club Cocktail

The Clover Club was a men's club that met at Philadelphia's Bellevue-Stratford hotel from the 1880s through the 1920s. The group consisted of journalists, lawyers, socialites, and other important men about town -- obviously they needed their own signature cocktail. And it was a good one, regarded as one of the gems of Pre-Prohibition America.

 

Clover Club Cocktail

2 oz Gin
3/4 oz Lemon Juice
3/4 oz Raspberry Syrup
1 Egg White

Dry shake (i.e., shake without ice) the ingredients for a good ten seconds. This will cause the egg white to froth, giving the drink a nice foamy texture. Add ice and shake again. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

 

There's always a small risk of bacterial contamination when using raw eggs in a drink, but it's a very small one. (And mixing the egg with alcohol reduces the risk even further.) If you're concerned, you can always use pasteurized egg whites instead.

If you don't have raspberry syrup, it's become common to subsitute grenadine, although I don't think the resulting cocktail tastes quite as good. In The PDT Cocktail Book, Jim Meehan recommends using 1/2 ounce simple syrup and one barspoon raspberry preserves.

Vote for the 21st Century Harvey!

Martin Miller's Gin is running a contest to choose the best new cocktail that "trades up" on a maligned classic drink from the 1970s and '80s. My entry is called the 21st Century Harvey and is an updated twist on the Harvey Wallbanger.

It's made using Martin Miller's gin, Cointreau, Licor 43 and Orange Bitters. It's pretty darn tasty, if you ask me.

You don't need to like it, though. You just need to vote for it!

Please visit the Facebook page for my entry and click on "Like." Your vote is appreciated!

 Vote for 21st Century Harvey

 

Recipe: A Day at the Races

The Wall Street Journal ran a piece recently on Tiki drinks for the fall season. The article included three recipes, one of which immediately caught my eye. Naturally I had to try it out, and my instinct was correct: it's a very tasty cocktail.

The drink is called A Day at the Races and it was created by mixologist Bill Codman of Storyville in Boston. Tiki drinks get an often justified rap as being sweet, but this one isn't. The use of gin instead of rum, and the small amount of syrup (in this case, grenadine), take care of that.

Here's the recipe:

 

A Day at the Races

Ingredients:

1 1/2 ounces Beefeater 24 Gin
1/2 ounce Velvet Falernum
1/2 ounce Grenadine
1/2 ounce Lemon Juice
Champagne

Shake all ingredients except Champagne with ice. Strain into a highball glass filled with crushed ice. Top with Champagne. Garnish with an orange twist.

 

The flavors blend together nicely in this drink. It has excellent balance and is very refreshing -- the Champagne topper is a great touch. Gin doesn't appear in very many Tiki drinks -- the best known exception being the Singapore Sling -- but it works well here.

A definite keeper!